Le Rabelais

The dining room sits inside a 17th-century vaulted wheat mill, which sets a certain tone before you've even ordered. This family-run restaurant in Saint-Chamas keeps a Michelin Bib Gourmand and runs its menu through several rotations a week, chasing whatever the season is actually doing. The cooking is hearty and careful, farm-to-table without making a fuss about it, the kind of place that makes Provence feel like it's still feeding people rather than performing for them.

One honor, in evidence: