Le Rendez-Vous

French chanson drifts through a small, warmly lit dining room in Baden where the owner runs service himself, greeting tables with the ease of someone who has done this a thousand times. It's a French-leaning set-menu restaurant, four or six courses built around dishes that take their time, rich braises and careful sauces. The kind of place where the host remembers how you take your wine before you do.

One honor, in evidence: