Le Vieux Logis

A converted tobacco drying barn, stone walls and painted wood intact, makes for a quietly dramatic room in the Périgord countryside. This is a one-Michelin-star restaurant where the chef, a Meilleur Ouvrier de France, roots the cooking in classical technique while keeping it light on its feet. The setting was once a priory, and there's still something ceremonious about the whole property, even if the lunch menu keeps things approachable.

One honor, in evidence: