Leña

A wood-fired Neapolitan pizza spot on Cotton Row, where the oven does the heavy lifting and the pies come out soft enough to fold the way Naples intended. The chef behind it earned 50 Top Pizza's Pizza Maker of the Year, and the restaurant itself lands at number nine on their USA list. In the Mississippi Delta, that's a sentence you don't see coming. Regulars settle in like they own the place, which is more or less the point.

Two honors, in evidence: