L'Envie

A single ingredient prepared two or three ways across the same plate is the chef's signature move at this Michelin-starred fine dining room in the Flemish countryside. David Grosdent's cooking leans classical but keeps a playful edge, built around sourcing that borders on obsessive. His partner runs the wine list, a thick tome weighted toward Corsica and Jura, with champagne selections that border on their own argument.