Les Cèdres

Cedar trees shade the terrace of this classic French restaurant tucked between Romans and Tain-l'Hermitage, the kind of place that has no interest in being discovered by anyone in particular. The brothers who run it, one in the kitchen and one in the dining room, cook to a Michelin star without any of the performance that usually comes with it. The food is rooted in flavor over technique, the welcome is warm, and the whole thing feels quietly, stubbornly itself.

One honor, in evidence: