Les Chênes

The desserts come from the chef's mother, who also bakes the bread, which tells you most of what you need to know about this family-run restaurant in the Auvergne hills. The son took over the kitchen after training elsewhere and came back with sharper technique, so the menu leans on local game, nearby fish farm trout, and regional cheese but lands with more confidence than a country inn usually bothers with. The Monts du Forez sit out the window.

One honor, in evidence: