Les Ducs de Lorraine

A neo-Tudor manor with stained-glass windows and carved wood panelling is an unlikely setting for precise modern cooking, and yet here we are in Épinal. This Michelin-starred restaurant leans into the grandeur rather than fighting it, with two chefs sending out turbot and sweetbreads alongside dessert trolleys that make a proper old-school entrance. The cellar runs deep on Bordeaux, and a conservatory with a sliding roof handles the weather.

One honor, in evidence: