L'Évidence

A Michelin-starred restaurant in an old house on a quiet square about fifteen kilometres from Tours, where the cooking follows the seasons so closely you could almost track the calendar by the menu. The chef draws from the Loire Valley for vegetables and meat, and from Brittany for fish and oysters, then nudges it somewhere unexpected, a tomato dessert, a basil sorbet. The Loire wine list is substantial and chosen to keep up.

One honor, in evidence: