Li Somari

The pan of chicken giblets is on the menu, and the regulars know to order it. This is a straightforward, old-school trattoria on the edge of Tivoli's historic center, with a kitchen that takes Lazio's meat-heavy canon seriously, offal very much included. Grilled marrow, beef tartare, truffled potatoes: the chef Adriano Baldassarre runs through the cuts most places quietly skip. A Michelin Bib Gourmand, and the fish dishes feel almost beside the point.