L'Incontournable

The wine cellar is the first thing you notice, visible from the dining room and too handsome to ignore. This is a contemporary French restaurant in the Belgian Ardennes run by a family, with dad in the kitchen and mother and son working the floor. The cooking leans into local produce with artistic plating, and the menu lists the suppliers by name, which is either charming or guilt-inducing depending on how you feel about knowing your lamb personally.

One honor, in evidence: