Lin'eau

Bare stone walls and old photographs hint at the flax factory this building used to be, though the room has been pulled into the present with art and a warmer sensibility. It's a modern French restaurant where the kitchen leans heavily into lesser-known fish and bycatch, following the NorthSeaChef ethos of making unfamiliar catches the point rather than the footnote. Sauces get particular attention here, and the cooking tends toward the quietly precise.

One honor, in evidence: