L'Itinérance

Floor-to-ceiling windows face the beach huts and open sea, so the sunset does half the decorating at this coastal modern restaurant in Mers-les-Bains. Interior designer Caroline Tissier handled the rest in shades of blue and green, which feels either on-the-nose or exactly right, depending on your tolerance for thematic commitment. The chef runs a set menu built around Picardy seafood, scallops from small boats and pot-caught langoustines, kept simple and letting the ingredients argue for themselves.