Locanda Cacciatori

A trattoria in a converted carpenter's workshop in the Val Nure hills, with a terrace that earns its keep on a warm afternoon. The kitchen cooks Piacenza's own repertoire, the kind of food someone's grandmother would recognize, including handmade anolini in broth that make a strong case for winter visits. The Michelin Guide has given it a Bib Gourmand, which tells you the cooking punches well above the bill.

One honor, in evidence: