Locanda de Banchieri

A working farm and old farmhouse tucked into the Tuscan hills near the Ligurian coast, where the kitchen draws almost entirely from the kitchen garden outside. This is Michelin-starred country cooking rooted in Lunigiana, the rugged borderland most tourists skip on their way somewhere else. The panoramic veranda stretches toward the sea, and the all-vegetable tasting menu, Flora, shifts with whatever the garden is doing that week.

One honor, in evidence: