Locanda Mariella

You book by email at least a day ahead and choose your menu before you arrive, tradition, land, or fish, which tells you everything about how seriously this Parmesan Apennines trattoria takes the whole enterprise. It holds a Michelin Bib Gourmand and has been an old-school institution in the hills outside Parma for generations, still run by the same family, now with a Japanese cook folded into the kitchen adding the occasional modern note.

One honor, in evidence: