Locanda Perbellini - Ai Beati

An old mill on the hills above Garda, its stone walls softened into a warm dining room, with a terrace that catches the southern stretch of the lake. This is a contemporary Mediterranean restaurant where the kitchen starts with local freshwater fish and then roams freely toward the sea and inland. The chef's mille-feuille has its own reputation, and the wasabi-dressed seafood salad is lighter than it has any right to be.

One honor, in evidence: