Mogano

Five tables, soft light, and wood everywhere you look: Mogano is a small, intimate restaurant tucked beside the Ritual Lab brewery in Formello, built around the idea that craft beer belongs at a serious dinner table. The chef spent years cooking internationally before landing here, folding Italian instincts into something harder to pin down. Guests get an aperitif in the kitchen before they sit, which sets the tone nicely for an evening that never quite fits a category.

One honor, in evidence: