Momoyama Onsen Tsukimikan

A ryokan on the Uji River that sits where a 16th-century castle once stood, which the staff mention casually, as if everyone sleeps on old fortifications. Rooms blend Japanese tradition with European modernist furniture in a way that should be odd and somehow isn't. The onsen and spa are the reason to linger, and the Fushimi neighborhood outside offers cultural sites and a sake industry that takes itself very seriously, justifiably so.