Monte

Park at the bottom of the village and walk up, the Michelin guide quietly insists, which is either charming advice or a gentle warning about the road. Monte is a tasting-menu restaurant in a tiny Asturian village, its terrace full of locals nursing cider before the more serious business begins inside. The chef built a supplier network capped at 20km and named both menus after the surrounding forest, which leaves little ambiguity about the agenda. One Michelin star.