Mr Guss

A chef who goes by Guss set up this contemporary restaurant on the ground floor of an old stone building in Nérac, and the cooking is the kind that makes you pay attention. Vegetables get the serious treatment here, with local produce driving dishes that layer textures and temperatures in ways that feel more playful than precious. Expect a room that's relaxed but focused, and a kitchen that's clearly having fun without making a fuss about it.

One honor, in evidence: