NĀST

The rough brick walls of a former chicory factory set the mood at this modern French restaurant in Izegem, where the industrial bones stay mostly intact and the cooking goes wherever the chef's curiosity leads. Presa iberico might land beside baba ghanoush and fregola, held together by a bacon emulsion, and it somehow works. Regional West Flemish producers get a look-in throughout, and the wine list leans organic with gueuze pairings for the adventurous.

One honor, in evidence: