Novanta

Duck shows up across the menu at this rustic Lombard trattoria in the Bassa Pavese flatlands, most memorably in the ragù that comes folded through fusilloni pasta. Lunch runs casual and honest, weekends lean more regional and considered, and the wine list stretches further than the setting might suggest. Easy to reach off the A21, which means the midday crowd knows exactly what it's doing when it pulls off the highway here.

One honor, in evidence: