Oliveiras

Fresh seafood and a Portuguese wine list that runs deep into fine ports anchor this Mediterranean restaurant, where the Oliveira family runs the room with the kind of ease that makes a dining room feel borrowed rather than commercial. The à la carte menu is long, daily specials shift with the seasons, and a small boutique sells olives and fleur de sel from the Algarve for when you want to take the feeling home.

One honor, in evidence: