Oltra

Old church stone tiles and wrought-iron details set the mood at this modern French restaurant in the Flemish countryside, where the room feels lived-in and the cooking is anything but. The chef pulls market produce in unexpected directions, reaching for lemongrass, vinegar, or horseradish ice cream where another kitchen might play it safe. The front-of-house keeps wine flowing and the energy loose, which helps when the food gets ambitious.

One honor, in evidence: