Osteria Bertaina

Frescoed ceilings from the last century look down on two small dining rooms tucked behind the porticoes of Mondovì's oldest square, and the room has the kind of unhurried warmth that makes you order one more glass. This is a traditional Piedmontese osteria with a kitchen that lightens the classics without flattening them. The dining room manager knows the menu cold, so if the choices blur together, just ask.

One honor, in evidence: