Osteria dei Maltagliati

The wood-fired oven and barbecue grill share the floor like co-stars at this rustic, exposed-brick osteria in a small Abruzzo wine village, and the ember-to-ember cooking chain that connects them shapes much of the menu. The young team works regional traditions without being enslaved by them, landing somewhere between grandmother's kitchen and genuine curiosity. The Michelin Guide has handed them a Bib Gourmand, which for a place this new is a notable way to start.

One honor, in evidence: