Osteria Taviani

A small Art Nouveau villa in the Tuscan countryside sets an unexpectedly polished stage for a modern osteria with old roots. The menu leans heavily on meat, with Tuscan tradition doing most of the heavy lifting, and when hunting season rolls around, the game dishes shift things into a more contemporary register. A courtyard garden out back handles the warm-weather overflow. The wine list sneaks in a few French bottles, which feels almost rebellious given the address.

One honor, in evidence: