OTORO

Pigeon cooked rare, then draped with foie gras and truffles, is the kind of move that tells you exactly where you are: a polished French restaurant with serious intentions and a soft spot for luxury ingredients. The room is cosy and the service runs warm without getting fussy. Expect gutsy sauces, the occasional Asian inflection, and a wine list that takes up more mental space than most people budget for.

One honor, in evidence: