Pedrocchino

A pizzeria where the chef, Walter Rampazzo, turns the dough itself into the menu, offering versions made with seawater, charcoal, or put through a triple-cooking process of steam, fry, and bake. The space has grown over the years into a sprawling multi-room spot with nearly two hundred seats and a garden with a pool. Long-leavened doughs, a solid beer selection, and a wine list round things out.

One honor, in evidence: