Pelegrini

A Renaissance palazzo beside the Cathedral of St. James is already doing a lot of the work, and the kitchen holds a Michelin star. This is a fine dining restaurant where the chef makes his own olive oil, collaborates with local winemakers on exclusive bottles, and runs two tasting menus built around Dalmatian land and sea. In summer, tables spill onto the external staircase with the cathedral looming overhead, which is the kind of thing that makes a meal hard to evaluate fairly.

One honor, in evidence: