Refuge du Montenvers

A rugged stone refuge perched at the edge of the Mer de Glace glacier, accessible only by a half-hour mountain train from Chamonix, which immediately sorts out the committed from the casual. One of the earliest Alpine hotels, it trades the usual wooden chalet look for bare rock and altitude. The on-site restaurant is a cozy wood-paneled room, and a second bistro serves food in front of views of the Aiguilles du Dru that make it hard to look at the plate.