Reina XIV

The menu categories at this contemporary Spanish restaurant are named after royal hunts and noble courts, which makes sense once you know the chef built the whole concept around the court of Philip V. Sitting beside the Parador in La Granja, the dining room takes its cues from the Royal Palace next door. The tasting menus require a reservation heads-up, and the à la carte keeps things more flexible for those who just wandered in from the gardens.

One honor, in evidence: