Restaurant du Champ de Mars

Beamed ceilings, exposed stone walls, and terracotta tiles are the bones of what was once a roadside inn, and the team has left them alone wisely. This is a modern French restaurant in Meaux where the cooking leans generous and careful rather than architectural. The tree-lined terrace fills up when the weather cooperates, which in the Île-de-France means everyone is quietly optimistic about June.

One honor, in evidence: