Restaurant Rollier

The dining room looks out over a bend in the River Scheldt, with the flat Flemish landscape doing its moody thing beyond the windows. This is a proper sit-down restaurant where classical French technique runs the à la carte and a more contemporary set menu handles the other side of things. Asian touches turn up without announcement, kimchi alongside the slow-cooked cutlet, for instance. The service is warm and unhurried, which suits the view.

One honor, in evidence: