Ricordeau

A garden terrace on the banks of the River Vègre sets the tone for this fine dining restaurant in the small town of Loué. The kitchen works closely with the seasons, and the local Loué chicken, a bird with a serious reputation in these parts, tends to anchor the menu. The cooking is careful and composed without feeling stiff, the kind of place where lunch quietly stretches into mid-afternoon.

One honor, in evidence: