Rimulas

A glass-walled kitchen lets you watch the chef work while you eat, which either relaxes or unnerves you depending on your table. This small, quietly modern restaurant in Voghera's historic centre earns a Michelin Bib Gourmand with Lombardian cooking that leans local but bends the rules just enough to keep things interesting. The co-owner steers wine choices toward the Oltrepò Pavese, and half-portions are on offer for anyone exercising restraint.

One honor, in evidence: