Rolin

A Mediterranean restaurant in Pinneberg named for the captain of a long-ago luxury steamer, which gives the room a quietly nautical sense of occasion without overdoing the theme. The kitchen leans across the Mediterranean and back into German regional cooking, so a plate might move from saffron risotto to browned bread dumplings in the same menu. Service is the attentive, professional kind where staff actually know what they're pouring.

One honor, in evidence: