Ronquillo

Stone walls, heavy wood, and a family running the room with the kind of quiet attentiveness that doesn't come from a training manual. This is a regional restaurant in a small Cantabrian town, built around zero-mile sourcing and three tasting menus named for local caves. The cooking is rooted in tradition with a lighter contemporary hand, and the soups and stews, pinto beans with venison among them, are the sort of thing you think about on the drive home.