Saisons

A 19th-century château on the grounds of a hotel management school sounds like a training exercise, but the Michelin one-star kitchen run by Florian Pansin is the real operation. It's a fine-dining room where seasonal modern French cooking arrives with precise technique and enough creativity to keep things from feeling like a textbook. The setting alone tends to make people sit up straighter, which, given the student staff, is probably the point.

One honor, in evidence: