San Genesio

On a clear day the terrace here looks out over the kind of Piedmontese panorama that makes you forget you ordered two hours ago. This is a traditional village trattoria with contemporary instincts, the kitchen leaning on regional classics while updating the plating and finding pairings that feel thought-through rather than dutiful. The wine list covers Piedmont thoroughly and then keeps going, which is fitting given that the sommelier runs the room.