Schankkuchl Pogusch

Floor-to-ceiling glass, an open kitchen at the center, and every dish cooked over flame or steam, which the menu cheerfully calls things like "Kissed by Fire" and "Pearls before Swine." This regional grill restaurant seats diners along a counter so nothing is hidden. Early in the evening you can order à la carte; later, the kitchen tailors a set menu to each table. Pick your own bottle from the walk-in cellar, then browse the farm shop on the way out.

One honor, in evidence: