Sitári

A pizzeria just outside Agrigento where the menu lists ten versions of margherita alone, which tells you where the priorities lie. The Sorce family runs a casual, friendly room and puts real thought into the dough, offering several styles including a black rice crust and a cereal breadcrumb version. Toppings are generous and considered. It moves a crowd efficiently without feeling like a conveyor belt.

One honor, in evidence: