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Som Tum Jinda
Thai
A basement room painted in bold hues serves som tam with the fermented fish funk of Isan tradition, the salted-crab version a textbook example of the form. Grilled pork jowl arrives succulent and charred; the heat scale climbs to eleven for those who want it. No liquor, but drinks flow from the adjacent café—a straightforward operation that trades comfort for conviction.
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