SOO

Exposed ducting and brick walls fill the old gatehouse of Maidla Estate, a detail that sounds incongruous until you're sitting inside and it clicks. SOO is a tasting menu restaurant in the Estonian countryside, the kind where local ingredients get rerouted through global technique, and both alcoholic and non-alcoholic pairings are on offer. Antique furnishings make the industrial bones feel less warehouse, more lived-in ruin. Getting here requires commitment, but that's rather the point.

One honor, in evidence: