Square

Marble-topped tables and a convivial room set the tone at this modern bistro in Dundalk, the sibling of The Courthouse in Carrickmacross. The menu name-checks Irish producers, then quietly pivots to Korean fried chicken, which tells you most of what you need to know. The format rewards sharing: a few snacks, a few larger plates, good company. It's the kind of place where no one is trying too hard, and the food is better for it.

One honor, in evidence: