Starling

A neighbourhood restaurant on Esher's high street with a Michelin star and, somehow, the good sense not to make a fuss about it. The room is spacious and unfussy, and the menu reads simpler than it cooks, the kind of food that tastes effortless precisely because it isn't. The chef's Orkney scallop with Thai green curry sauce has become a calling card. Lunch is good value, and the steaks give the regulars a reason to stay loyal.

One honor, in evidence: