Strabordo

The oven is visible from the dining room, which tells you where the priorities are. Strabordo is a contemporary Neapolitan-style pizzeria sitting at the far edge of Salerno province, practically at the Basilicata border, and the dough shows the soft, airy crust that style demands. Seasonal local ingredients get serious attention, and the fried things, especially the croquettes, are not an afterthought. The room is bright and modern, the kind of place that knows exactly what it is.

One honor, in evidence: