Suyab Courtyard・Pickmoon Gourmet

Nine private rooms tucked inside a building that also contains a furniture showroom and a Japanese tea room, which tells you something about the neighborhood's ambitions. This is a refined Chiu Chow restaurant where the menu bends around seasonal availability and what you actually feel like eating. The kitchen works in the old regional tradition without being precious about it, and the whole thing holds a Michelin star.

Two honors, in evidence: