Teyföl

Named for the sour cream that turns up in half the dishes, this modern bistro sits in a period building on a cobbled Old Town street in Szentendre, the contrast between the historic exterior and the bright interior setting the tone for what follows. The kitchen takes classical Hungarian cooking and applies just enough creativity to keep things interesting, working through confit chicken pancakes and gypsy-style roasts without veering into the fussy.

One honor, in evidence: